At home, I had long ago equipped all the lighting fixtures with homemade LEDs, and only in the office there was a single lamp with a compact fluorescent lamp on the desktop.
Since the lamp was used quite intensively, the lamps for it with a G23 socket with a power of 11 W had to be changed every year or a year and a half, despite the respected manufacturer Osram.
In addition, six months before the lamp burned out, the lamp began to wink at the mains frequency, which was terribly tiring. The lamp did not turn on immediately, but with a delay required to warm up the starter (like a regular fluorescent tube), which is located in the lamp base.
Another drawback of my lamp is the overly heavy plug-throttle, which constantly fell out of the European socket and, moreover, was itself a consumer of electricity. In general, when the time came to change the lamp once again, I thought about converting the lamp to LED.
It was very easy to disassemble the device: I only had to unscrew three screws. There was enough space in the lampshade to accommodate the driver and radiator with LEDs. Having considered that the power of a 6 W LED lamp is enough to illuminate the workplace, I began to select components.
I did not find a driver for 6 one-watt LEDs, so I had to use a driver for two-watt LEDs and, accordingly, three three-watt LEDs (two-watt LEDs do not exist). They will work in a lightweight mode - two and attaching the radiator to the body of the lamp reflector, after which I used a drilling machine at these points to drill two holes 0 2.5 mm and six 0 2 mm, and then thread M3 and M into them 2.5 respectively.
To accommodate the driver, a “native” G23 socket was used, from which one of the sockets intended for connecting a lamp was milled out with a burr machine. As a result, there was no need to worry about isolating the driver from the radiator and reflector.
The radiator was installed in the lampshade and secured with two M3 screws through holes drilled in the reflector.
Unfortunately, I ran out of hot glue. Therefore, I soldered the LEDs onto Star boards using KPT-8 thermal paste (but I didn’t have to wait for the hot-melt glue to dry). I secured the boards with LEDs to the radiator with M2.5 screws, also using thermal paste.
Next, I soldered the LEDs in series with MGTF wire with a cross-section of 0.12 mm2 and soldered the output wires of the driver to the light-emitting module, observing the polarity. I put the cartridge with the driver in place and soldered the input wires to the “original” switch. All connections were insulated with heat shrink tubing. Then he closed the lamp cover and, sighing with relief, cut off the annoying throttle plug. Instead I installed an ordinary two-pole plug.
A test turn on of the lamp showed that I was in vain afraid of the LED-board transition, where thermal paste was used instead of hot-melt adhesive: the temperature after an hour of operation was normal. Measurements were taken at the negative terminal of the LED (the point most susceptible to heating) and at the point of contact of the radiator with the board. The lamp conversion is complete.
I would like to note that in the work, the “original” parts of the lamp were used to the maximum, but they were bought for a penny! And the rework took several hours at most. And this lamp will also serve my grandchildren.
The economic effect of replacing light bulbs with LEDs
As a result of the modification, the power of the lamp decreased from 11 to 6 W, that is, now the lamp consumes almost half as much electricity. And if we take into account the reactive component of electricity consumption by the inductor old lamp, then the economic effect will be much more significant. At the same time, the luminous flux has even increased slightly and amounts to 600-660 lm, which is quite enough to illuminate the workplace.
Accessories
- Driver HG-2234 with characteristics: U input = 90-240 VAC; U out = 6-12 VDC; I out = 460-500 mA; dimensions - 25 x 17 x 17 mm.
- Three 3HPD-3 LEDs (I pr. = 700/1,000 mA; U = 2.9-3.6 V; Fv = “250 - 270 lm at rated current; 281/2 = 120 degrees; T = 3,060 K ; chip 45 x 45 mil).
- Three radiator plates Star 0 20 mm and 1.6 mm thick.
- Radiator HS 172-30 dimensions 150 x 30 x 13 mm.
DIY LED in a table lamp - photo
- An 11 W lamp from Osram, which had to be replaced with LEDs.
- Disassembling the lamp turned out to be quite easy.
- Accessories for LED module.
- The HS 172-30 radiator is quite suitable for cooling three LEDs.
- Proper radiator layout.
- M2.5 holes - for mounting the Star board, M3 hole - for mounting the radiator
- Part of the cartridge is milled by a drill...
- ...to install the driver here.
- The radiator fit freely on the lampshade reflector.
- The boards are installed.
- All elements of the light-emitting module were wired using MGTF wire.
- The only thing left to do is put the lid back in place and change the plug.
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The modern small-sized table lamp, which is shown in the photograph, with a light source installed in it in the form of a fluorescent U-shaped compact lamp, worked for several years and failed.
According to the owner of the table lamp, recently, when the lamp was still working, an unpleasant odor was coming from its base.
Opening the base of the lamp immediately showed what the problem was. The insulation in one of the windings of the ballast device was burnt. Obviously, due to overheating or poor quality of insulation of the winding wire of the coil, a short circuit occurred between the turns, which provoked the heating of the winding to a high temperature and the final failure of the ballast device.
I didn’t want to bother with rewinding the coils, and it was almost impossible to find a ready-made ballast device for replacement, especially since its type was unknown. Therefore, I decided to remake the table lamp in a modern way - install LEDs instead of a fluorescent lamp, and replace the ballast device with an electronic driver, especially since everything for such a remodel was at hand.
Replacing a fluorescent lamp with LEDs
There was a long and narrow printed circuit board with LEDs from a linear LED lamp.
The driver in it burned out and melted the tube body due to heat. Therefore, the linear lamp could not be repaired, but the diodes were in good working order. The width of the strip with LEDs fit well into the reflector of the table lamp.
The fluorescent U-shaped tube in the reflector was held in place by a plastic retainer and a base. To determine the required length of the LED strip, the lamp with base had to be removed. In order to get to the base of the fluorescent lamp, I had to unscrew one screw and remove the fixing strip.
The base did not have any additional fastening, and to remove it all that remained was to unsolder the two supply wires. The wires were multi-core and of sufficient cross-section, so I decided to leave them to supply power to the LEDs.
After trying on and determining the length of the LED strip, a piece of the required length was cut off using a jigsaw. The LEDs on the bar are placed diagonally, so I had to cut them with a jigsaw.
The cutting line passed in the right place, the printed tracks connecting the LEDs remained intact.
To attach the LED strip, we used the existing fasteners for the table lamp reflector. The fluorescent lamp was fixed using a plastic bracket screwed to the reflector with a self-tapping screw, and the fixing cover was screwed to the plastic stand.
A hole with a diameter of 3 mm for a self-tapping screw was drilled in the strip between the LEDs and a hole was made for mounting to the stand. After checking that the mounting hole matches the hole in the short stand, you can begin to secure the strip with LEDs in the reflector.
Before final installation of the strip with LEDs in the reflector, it is necessary to solder wires to the contact pads on it. One of the wires was short, and it had to be extended by soldering and an insulating casing put on at the connection point. Since the wires were the same color, after checking with a multimeter, the positive wire was marked on both sides with white cambric rings.
I used a ready-made PCB with LEDs. But it’s easy to make such a board yourself. Moreover, if you use modern one-watt LEDs, for example LED-SMD5730-1, then it is enough to solder only 3-5 pieces. You can also use an LED strip glued to a metal strip as a light source instead of individual LEDs. You will have to select a driver individually in each case.
The photo clearly shows how a printed circuit board with LEDs installed on it is fixed in the reflector of a table lamp. In order for the bar to be removed from the bottom of the reflector at the long post (photo on the left), a cambric with a length equal to the height of the right short post was put on it.
Before fixing the LEDs in the reflector, they were tested by connecting to the driver. The current consumption was also measured. The photo shows a reflector with LEDs installed in it. All that remains is to attach the fixing cover, having first placed a piece of cambric over its entire length on the protruding post. Thus, the left edge of the bar will be securely fastened between two sections of tubes.
Driver selection and circuit diagram
To supply power voltage to the LEDs, a transformerless driver from a faulty E27 LED lamp, assembled according to a classic electrical circuit diagram, was used.
In the photo you can see the wiring to the driver. Black wires coming from the LED board are soldered to the positive and negative outputs of the driver. Using blue and yellow wires, a supply voltage of 220 V is supplied to the driver.
Electric circuit diagram driver is given above. Capacitor C1 with a capacity of 0.8 μF limits the current to 57 mA. R1 and R3 limit current surges due to the charging of capacitors when the driver is connected to the network. The diode bridge VD1-VD4 rectifies the voltage, and the electrolytic capacitor C2 smoothes out the ripples so that the LEDs do not blink at the mains frequency. A safety element is also installed in the driver circuit, most likely it is a barter; it smoothes out current surges and at the same time acts as a fuse. If you need to reduce or increase the LED supply current, you will need to correspondingly reduce or increase the capacitance of capacitor C1. You can increase C1 even without desoldering it from the board by soldering an additional capacitor in parallel to its terminals. When capacitors are connected in parallel, the total capacitance is equal to the sum of their capacitances, that is, the current will also increase.
The constant current that ensures optimal brightness of the LEDs used is 20 mA. LEDs on printed circuit board connected in parallel in three pieces. Therefore, the current required for their operation according to such a connection scheme should be 60 mA. As you know, for long-term operation of LEDs it is better that the flowing current is slightly less than the rated current. Therefore, a current of 57 mA provided by the driver fully satisfies this requirement.
There were 60 LEDs on the strip. The measured voltage drop across each triad of LEDs was 2.48 V. Thus, the power consumed by the LEDs was 2.48 V × 20 pcs. × 0.057 A = 2.8 W, which is equivalent to a 25 W incandescent light bulb. The illumination created by the table lamp is quite sufficient when used as an emergency light, a night lamp, a backlight for a computer keyboard, or for reading an e-book.
The weight of the driver is insignificant and therefore I did not mount it rigidly, I simply grabbed it with a flexible plastic clamp by one of the posts for attaching the halves of the base. The standard table lamp switch was used as a switch. To complete the modification of the table lamp, all that remains is to fasten its base together with three self-tapping screws, and you can begin to carry out sea trials.
Tests of the table lamp showed good results. Thanks to the ability to tilt the stand and rotate the reflector in two planes, the table lamp allows you to direct the light flux to the desired lighting area.
The alteration made it possible not only to restore the functionality of the table lamp without cost, but also turned an obsolete table lamp into a modern lamp with low energy consumption.
You've probably seen a table lamp like this at least once; more often, similar designs are used for manipulation in beauty salons.
However, in ordinary home life, such a lamp is very convenient.
Since I spend a lot of time on my laptop, I needed this kind of lighting on a fairly long tripod. But I don’t find the cold white CW light it emits comfortable. The lamp worked for me for more than a year, and I began to suspect that soon the life of the fluorescent lamp would come to an end, and I ordered a spool in advance LED strip.
The tape arrived, and all I had to do was wait for the lamp to burn out - which happened a few days later.
I suggest you look with me at this option for redesigning the design:
- its use with LED strip;
- think (and implement) about what new qualities this lamp can acquire;
- slightly repair the reflector rotation unit;
- dream about what else you could, if desired, add to the already finished lamp.
Disassembly.
It wasn't difficult; it's always easier to take apart. Pay attention to the massive throttle that was hidden in the cubic cavity of the vertical rotary assembly of the lamp rod system. I got rid of it, but of course I didn’t throw it away. 
In the lamp stand I found a plastic container with cement poured into it, which pleasantly surprised me - I expected to find a bag of sand. Of course, this weighting material will have to be replaced with something. Looking ahead, I will say that at that time, I was leaning toward sand, but a replacement was found. 
The coil itself with strip on 2835 LEDs. The choice was not random. I didn’t want too much power (brightness), since I would have to think about dissipating significant heat. I also didn’t want to complicate the designs with dimming - because I don’t like long-term construction. And the tape must be WW - a warm white glow. In general, I bought exactly what I wanted. 
The tape was cut into 8 pieces and glued with an adhesive layer to the standard reflector.
Then I became depressed, realizing that how much I would have to solder... 
After cutting a suitable piece of the circuit board, I prepared and tinned 16 conductors. In this case, a group of eight conductors was placed in the center of the circuit board and was defined as positive conductors, and two groups of four conductors were intended to connect to the negative pole of the power source. 
To my joy, it was very easy to solder, and literally after 7 minutes, I already had a ready-made version. 
And 
I put the scarf itself on hot glue and checked the operation at reduced voltage - I was pleased with the result. 
Power supply and stand.
I decided to place it in a stand. Just one of these, quite large, I had no use for. And again, looking ahead, I will say that this placement of the power supply is not the only one. 
Since I could no longer place the standard weighting agent, I was about to grab a plastic bag of sand, but I remembered that about six years ago, I was casting half-rings of weighting agents from lead and ran away to my magical barn. In the same shed, I came across a rubber ball from my . 
The half rings were flattened on an anvil, since their height interfered with the assembly of the base of the lamp, and they were wrapped in halves of a deflated ball - it turned out tight, dense and elastic. =) 
Yes, pay attention to the piece of twisted cord - one end of it was soldered to 12v from the power supply, passed through the hole on the back of the stand. At its other end, a plug was soldered for connection to the mating socket, which I placed in the empty cubic cavity left after removing the throttle. 
The general view is like this 
Minor repairs.
After a year of operation, the head of the lamp with the reflector stopped being fixed in horizontal position In other words, if the head of the lamp was turned at an angle to the upper rod of the lamp leg, the turning unit could not support the weight of the head, and the head itself fell down.
Of course, the weight of the fluorescent light bulb was to blame for this. And although the weight of the entire lamp assembly has decreased significantly, this problem remains.
It was impossible to disassemble this assembly, and I simply bit off the plastic ebbs of the assembly spacer and screwed a self-tapping screw between the spring petals.
Anyone who has come across a lamp of this type has definitely encountered this defect in the rotary unit - you’ll figure it out =) 
And 
Touch control.
Look down the photo, you will see a pink USB lamp on a flexible leg, it is touch-sensitive. I picked up five of these lamps several years ago at fifty cents apiece.
In general, I gave three and left two. The LEDs in one of them have lost their brightness, this is especially noticeable in comparison with the new one.
Hidden inside the lamp:
- TPP223 chip;
- field N (corrected, thanks for that) channel transistor SI2302;
- three LEDs;
- and SMD wiring for all this. 
This is a ready-made control scheme, and I couldn’t help but be flattered by it.
The only thing is that I supplied the TPP223 with a 3.3v integrated stabilizer. I knocked two LEDs off the board, and left the last one for debugging. I installed low-resistance resistors for the sake of experimentation, then I removed them.
The total current was less than one ampere =) 
What could have been done differently.
As you can see, I used a large power supply - but that’s what it was.
You also saw that the cubic cavity in which the throttle was located remained empty. If you have a small-sized 12v power supply on hand, then it is better to place it there. Then, in the stand, you can place the coils wireless charging, they just beg to be there, and for the detachable connection of the stand and the power supply, you can use the same technique that I used =)
PS
I didn’t even know that this type of lamps is quite common among readers =))
a piece of the video is available at the link to
Converting a failed fluorescent lamp into an LED lamp is a very good idea. Diodes with comparable power consumption shine brighter and last longer. The method of converting a fluorescent lamp into an LED lamp depends on the type of lamp itself.
Types of luminaire designs for fluorescent lamps:
- linear;
- compact.
How to convert a linear fluorescent light into an LED one
If you have a lamp with a linear body, converting it into an LED version is not difficult. The easiest way is to use diode strips. There are even options for connecting to a 220V network without special power drivers. Their peculiarity is that all LEDs are connected in series and the output of one of them will render the entire segment inoperable.
The connection diagram is very simple:
Characteristics of 220V LED strip:
- Matrix type: SMD 5050;
- number of diodes per linear meter: 60 pcs. (60 x 3.5V = 210V);
- load power: 10W;
- light flow: 2100Lm.
In terms of brightness, a meter of such tape will correspond to an ordinary 100W incandescent light bulb.
Design advantages:
- Very simple and quick installation and connection.
Design flaws:
- Due to the lack of a smoothing capacitor, the LEDs flicker at a frequency of 100 Hz. According to sanitary standards, such lighting sources cannot be used in residential premises.
- Along the entire length of the tape a large number of contact pads through which 220V voltage passes. To prevent short circuits, this type of tape is produced only in a sealed case, which makes repairs difficult if one of the diode matrices burns out.
- The minimum segment length of 50cm makes it difficult to create compact structures.
The main disadvantage of such tapes is high-frequency flicker. It is practically not perceived by vision, but causes rapid fatigue when performing precise work or reading. The problem is partially solved by installing a high-voltage capacitor in front of the diode bridge at the rate of 60-70 μF x 500V per 10W of tape power.
How to convert a fluorescent table lamp to LED
It will not be possible to remake such a lamp with little effort by installing a 220V strip there. With a minimum segment length of 50cm, it will not fit into the body, and its design has a very negative attitude towards bends. In such a lamp you can install several strips of diode strips designed for a voltage of 12V.
The optimal design option in this case is:
We use four 25 cm strips with 12V wiring. As a result, the brightness will be at the level of 75W of an incandescent lamp.
Power supply for compact lamp
A meter of tape consumes about 15W and is designed for a current of 1.2A. For such power, it makes no sense to buy a 30-watt specialized driver. You can use a ready-made factory solution. This miniature power supply with a total power of up to 20W. But the dimensions of 79 x 30 x 24 mm will not allow it to fit into the lamp body.
You can assemble a compact switching power supply with your own hands according to the following scheme. Capacitor 20-30 uF x 400V, zener diode 9-12V.
How to convert base fluorescent lamps into LED lamps
There are two options for modifying such a light bulb into an LED one:
- use of diode strip segments;
- Compact lamp with bright LEDs.
Conversion for LED strip
Materials for conversion and connection diagram:
Detailed video instructions for the modification:
For compact tabletop solutions, convert the fluorescent lamp to LED lamp can be done as follows. Unlike the previous option, this design provides a directional luminous flux and is ideal for illuminating the workplace. Diodes can be used at 0.5 or 1 W. Then the final brightness will be 350Lm or 700Lm, respectively.
To power the structure, you can use any 12V 2A power supply if you connect all the LEDs in parallel, or charger from mobile phone at 5V 2A when connected in three parallel lines.
Power drivers for energy-saving light bulbs are not suitable for LEDs, so we can safely unsolder the wires going to the base from them, and send the boards themselves for further processing.
If an old Soviet lamp with fluorescent fluorescent lamps such as LB-40, LB-80 is out of order, or you are tired of changing the starter in it, recycling the lamps themselves (and you can’t just throw them in the trash for a long time), then you can easily convert to LED.
The most important thing is that fluorescent and LED lamps have the same bases - G13. Unlike other types of pin contacts, no modifications to the housing are required. 
- G- means pins are used as contacts
- 13 is the distance in millimeters between these pins
Benefits of remodeling
In this case you will receive:
- greater illumination
- lower losses (almost half of the useful energy in fluorescent lamps can be lost in the choke)
- absence of vibration and unpleasant rattling sound from the ballast throttle
True, in more modern models, electronic ballast is already used. They have increased efficiency (90% or more), noise has disappeared, but energy consumption and luminous flux have remained at the same level. 
For example, new models of such LPO and LVO are often used for Armstrong ceilings. Here is a rough comparison of their effectiveness: 
Another advantage of LEDs is that there are models designed for supply voltages from 85V to 265V. For fluorescent you need 220V or close to it. 
For such LEDs, even if your network voltage is low or too high, they will start and shine without any complaints.
Luminaires with electromagnetic ballasts
What you need to pay attention to when remaking simple fluorescent lamps to LED? First of all, its design. 
If you have a simple old Soviet-style lamp with starters and an ordinary (not electronic ballast) choke, then in fact there is no need to modernize anything. 
Simply pull out the starter, select a new LED lamp to fit the overall size, insert it into the housing and enjoy brighter and more economical lighting.
If the starter is not removed from the circuit, then when replacing the LB lamp with an LED one, a short circuit can be created.
It is not necessary to dismantle the throttle. For an LED, the current consumption will be in the range of 0.12A-0.16A, and for a ballast, the operating current in such old lamps is 0.37A-0.43A, depending on the power. In fact, it will act as an ordinary jumper. 
After all the rework, you still have the same lamp. There is no need to change the fixture on the ceiling, and you no longer have to dispose of burnt lamps and look for special containers for them. 
Such lamps do not require separate drivers and power supplies, since they are already built-in inside the housing. 
The main thing is to remember the main feature - for LEDs, two pin contacts on the base are rigidly connected to each other.
And with fluorescent they are connected by a filament. When it gets hot, mercury vapor ignites. 
In models with electronic ballasts, a filament is not used and the gap between the contacts is pierced by a high voltage pulse.
The most common sizes of such tubes are:
- 300mm (used in table lamps)
- 900mm and 1200mm
The longer they are, the brighter the glow. 
Conversion of a lamp with electronic ballast
If you have a more modern model, without a starter, with an electronic ballast throttle (electronic ballast), then you will have to tinker a little with changing the circuit. 
What is inside the lamp before alteration:
- throttle
- wires
- contact blocks-cartridges on the sides of the case
The throttle is what will need to be thrown out first. Without it, the entire structure will significantly lose weight. Unscrew the mounting screws or drill out the rivets, depending on the fastener.
Then disconnect the power wires. To do this, you may need a screwdriver with a narrow blade. 
You can use these wirings and just eat them with pliers.
The connection diagram for the two lamps is different; with the LED lamp everything is much simpler: 
The main task that needs to be solved is to supply 220V to different ends of the lamp. That is, the phase is on one terminal (for example, the right one), and the zero is on the other (left). 
It was said earlier that an LED lamp has both pin contacts inside the base, connected to each other by a jumper. Therefore, here it is impossible, as in a fluorescent one, to supply 220V between them.
To verify this, use a multimeter. Set it to resistance measurement mode, and touch the two terminals with the measuring probes and take measurements. 
The display should display the same values as when the probes are connected to each other, i.e. zero or close to it (taking into account the resistance of the probes themselves).
A fluorescent lamp, between two terminals on each side, has a resistance filament, which, after applying a voltage of 220V through it, heats up and “starts” the lamp. 
- without dismantling cartridges
- with dismantling and installing jumpers through their contacts
Without dismantling
The easiest way is without dismantling, but you will have to buy a couple of Wago clamps.
In general, bite out all the wires suitable for the cartridge at a distance of 10-15mm or more. Next, insert them into the same Vago clamp. 
Do the same with the other side of the lamp. If the wago terminal block does not have enough contacts, you will have to use 2 pieces. 
After this, all that remains is to feed a phase into the clamp on one side and zero on the other.
No Vago, just twist the wires under the PPE cap. With this method, you do not need to deal with the existing circuit, jumpers, get into the cartridge contacts, etc.
With dismantling the cartridges and installing jumpers
The other method is more scrupulous, but does not require any extra costs.
Remove the side covers from the lamp. This must be done carefully, because... In modern products, the latches are made of brittle and breakable plastic. 
After which, you can dismantle the contact cartridges. Inside them there are two contacts that are isolated from each other.
Such cartridges can be of several varieties: 
All of them are equally suitable for lamps with G13 socket. There may be springs inside them. 
First of all, they are needed not for better contact, but to ensure that the lamp does not fall out of it. Plus, due to the springs, there is some compensation for the length. Since it is not always possible to produce identical lamps with millimeter accuracy.
Each cartridge has two power cables. Most often, they are attached by snapping into special contacts without screws. 
You turn them clockwise and counterclockwise, and with some force, pull one of them out. 
As mentioned above, the contacts inside the connector are isolated from each other. And by dismantling one of the wiring, you actually leave only one contact socket. 
All current will now flow through the other contact. Of course, everything will work on one, but if you are making a lamp for yourself, it makes sense to improve the design a little by installing a jumper.
Thanks to it, you don’t have to make contact by turning the LED lamp from side to side. The double connector ensures a reliable connection. 
The jumper can be made from the extra power wires of the lamp itself, which you will definitely have left over as a result of the rework.
Using a tester, you check that after installing the jumper, there is a circuit between the previously isolated connectors. Do the same with the second plug-in contact on the other side of the lamp.
The main thing is to make sure that the remaining power wire is no longer phase, but zero. You bite off the rest.
Fluorescent lamps with two, four or more lamps
If you have a two-lamp lamp, it is best to supply voltage to each connector with separate conductors. 
When installing a simple jumper between two or more cartridges, the design will have a significant drawback.
The second lamp will light only if the first one is installed in its place. Remove it, and the other one will go out immediately. 
The supply conductors should converge on the terminal block, where you will have the following connected in turn: 