Reliable fixation external antenna on the wall in the selected location ensures the stability of the signal and the safety of people passing below. Strength is especially important when mounting "heavy" antennas and satellite dishes with high windage.

The method of fastening the bracket depends on the material used in the construction of the house. In difficult cases, standard dowel bolts are not suitable for use.

Brick, concrete, solid wood (beam, log)

The method of fastening is the simplest, carried out according to the standard method:

1. Find out where the wiring is with a metal detector before drilling.
2. Mark out the holes.
3. Drill holes (a hammer drill is suitable for concrete and brick walls; if the wall is wooden, use an electric drill).

   The process of drilling a brick wall is quite simple, but you may encounter some difficulties. For example, burnt bricks must be drilled at low speed in combination with the activation of the hammer function. Burnt brick can be recognized by the black color of the dust.

   It is necessary to start drilling a brick wall for a hole of 12 mm with a 4-6 mm drill. They reach the planned depth, then the width of the hole is expanded with a 10 mm drill. Having reached the required depth, a similar action should be repeated with a 12 mm drill.

4. Blow holes through small diameter tube to remove debris.
5. Place dowels with polyethylene plugs in the holes (usually use a diameter of 12-14 mm)
6. Fasten the bracket: screw a grouse bolt into each hole and tighten with hex head screws, fixing the bracket. On a concrete wall, use an anchor instead of a capercaillie bolt.
7. Assemble the "plate" according to the instructions.
8. Connect the measuring device (Sat-Finder) and, based on its readings, turn the plate at the optimal angle.
9. Pull the cable inside the room: it is possible through the window, but it is better to drill a hole for it in the wall.
10. Connect the cable to the set-top box.

When mounting on a concrete or brick wall, dowels with polyethylene plugs with a diameter of 12-14 mm and hexagon head screws with the appropriate wrench. Anchor bolts are also used for fixing to concrete.

Ventilated or clad facade

When installing the bracket on a ventilated or lined facade, it is important to take into account the length of the bracket and the width of the "plate" in advance. The bracket is always attached to the main wall. After installing the antenna, it may turn out that it is impossible to turn it at the desired angle: the top layer of the facade interferes. Decide in advance in which direction the "plate" will be directed and make sure that the length of the bracket is sufficient.

In the figure: the thickness of the facade prevents the antenna from being turned in the right direction

Ventilated facade

In the case of a ventilated facade, the first stage of work will be the removal of the facing tiles from the "hooks" of the steel frame in order to make room for fastening. Cut a hole in the insulation layer and fix the bracket in the standard way, as described above. The antenna mount should be mounted from one of the edges of the resulting opening.

On the facade tiles:

• The saw cut is marked (make sure how the antenna will be directed);
• "Bulgarian" is cut (use a circle for cutting on tiles; cut on a perfectly flat surface).

Wall with styrofoam and siding

If there is a brick or other strong surface under the decorative elements, two mounting options are used.

1. Standard wall mounting

In this case, a piece of foam and siding is cut out exactly to the size of the mounting platform of the bracket and installation is carried out using standard materials.

Disadvantage: A significant reduction in the "departure" of the bracket, which subsequently will not allow you to turn the antenna towards the base station.

2. Installation of fasteners using special spacer tubes and anchor bolts of increased length

You will need rigid metal tubes, the length of which corresponds to the width of the interlayer. With their help, soft materials such as siding or foam will not experience stress, and the fastening will remain reliable.

Working Method:

• Cut holes in the foam for metal pipes;
• Drill through the walls;
• Install the metal tube;
• Fasten the bracket.

Extra long anchor bolts (eg #200) can be used. Select the anchor so that half of the length is in a solid wall, the other half is in the foam. Drill a hole, insert the anchor, remove the nut from it, attach the bracket and tighten the nut again.

Frame house wall

Option 1

Before starting work, the location of the metal frame is determined. You will need a powerful magnet or a special metal detector.

Drill through the wall and fix the bracket with threaded rods, the length of which corresponds to the width of the wall. In this way, you can quickly and securely fix the bracket. However, in this case, cold bridges are created, because. the hole goes outside.

Option 2

• Take a wooden plate (or plywood sheet) 20-30 mm thick.
• Drill holes in it and fix the bracket to the plate with bolts and nuts.
• Attach the plate with the bracket to the wall and fix it with self-tapping screws.

Facade and walls made of hollow blocks

When mounting brackets on a foam concrete or aerated concrete wall, the use of chemical anchors is recommended.

• Drill a cone-shaped hole for the dowel;
• Insert dowel;
• Place a metal pin in the hole;
• Pour in the chemical composition and leave for a while.

If you have any problems during the self-installation of brackets for antennas, contact Alterico specialists. Our masters will answer your questions or mount the equipment at the highest level. All work is guaranteed.

Television is no longer a luxury, but a necessary and everyday item. And the need to mount an external antenna for a TV will probably be relevant for a very long time. He himself was faced with the need to take the antenna out into the street, tk. The TV does not receive a signal on the indoor antenna. About five years ago I bought an antenna, installed it on a pipe chimney . I connected it to the TV with an old television cable (75 ohm / meter, from the times of the USSR). For a couple of years everything was fine, then the reception began to weaken significantly, and the number of channels was added. Replacing the board in the antenna (amplifier) ​​did not bring a tangible result. Apparently, the long (25 meters) old cable dampens the signal. In general, it is necessary to shorten the cable, and move the antenna closer to the TV. For this, a new cable (9 meters) was purchased, and a new amplifier in the antenna.
The test connection showed an excellent result - see photo on the right. It remains to securely attach the antenna to this place. But do not nail it with nails ....

To mount the antenna, first, the bracket design was peeped (on the nearest houses where a satellite dish is installed). In the future, the "plate" is planned. Therefore, it was decided to make a fairly strong bracket, on which this very “plate” will be fixed in the future.
Not for the sake of greed, but solely out of economy, he made this cunning design from the remnants of water pipes left after the repair. The bracket is planned in the form of an all-welded frame: a segment of a vertically located iron pipe (let's call it a carrier pipe), held by three supports at the required distance from the wall, and the edge of the roof. A thinner diameter pipe will be inserted into the vertical pipe, on which the antenna will actually be fixed. Measurements showed that the length of the roof visor from the wall is 49 cm. This means that a distance of 55 cm from the wall will be just right so that water from the roof does not fall on the antenna pole (and later on the satellite dish). satellite dish will be mounted in the same way as a simple antenna is now: on a piece of a thinner pipe inserted into a carrier pipe, see above.

Without bothering with mathematical calculations (in principle, not complicated), I measure 55 cm on the floor. I put the upper support between the marks. Next, the two lower supports, thus, as shown in the photo. The distance between the legs of the lower supports on the wall is assumed to be such that during installation, the holes in the wall fall on the whole brick, and not on the seam between the bricks. It turned out an analogue of a triangle, with a median, in the form of an upper support. Further, the length of the lower supports should be increased by about 9-10 cm from the resulting size. And that's why. The top support will be perpendicular to the supporting vertical pipe. If the lower supports are also strictly perpendicular, this structure may “sag” due to the bending of the supports. Then, it will be necessary to additionally strengthen the structure with a stretcher extending from the bottom of the carrier pipe to the place where the upper support is attached to the wall. And if the angle between the carrier pipe and the lower supports is increased a little, then stretching is not needed. To do this, it is enough to lower the attachment point of the lower supports to the wall a little lower, which was done.

So, let's get down to business.

First step:
In order not to mess around with the round joint of pipes at the junction of the carrier pipe and supports, I flatten the ends of the support pipes with a hammer, giving them a flat shape (seen in the video). And only after this operation I accurately measure and cut along the length of the workpiece.
Second step.
I cook the upper support to the carrier pipe, as the simplest element.

Third step.
I lean the ends of the lower supports against the wall. Since the wall is brick, it is easy to maintain the required distance between the legs of the supports. With a gloved hand, I hold the joint of the lower supports, which I lightly weld to fix. After fixing, I weld a small piece of steel bar near the junction of the supports. It turns out a similarity of a triangle - a reinforcing element of the structure.

Fourth step.
I have never been an acrobat, but here you need to simultaneously lean against the wall the structures obtained in the second and third steps, fix their connections together. I succeeded only on the second attempt. I put the resulting "spider" on the ground, and now I am welding the joint of the carrier pipe and the lower supports.

Fifth step.
I cut off three sections about 15 centimeters long from the iron strip, drill holes and weld all three supports to those places that will be attached to the wall.

At the same time, I weld the first plate to the upper support, leaning it against the wall. Further - to the two lower supports, again showing the wonders of acrobatics. The skill makes itself felt - it is possible to press correctly on the first try. For reliable fastening of the lower supports to the plate, I weld reinforcing elements - pieces of a bar with a diameter of 15 mm (1). I also weld a piece of the bar to the corner at the junction of the carrier pipe and the upper support (2) - more for complacency, because the connection there is already quite reliable. I also make additional reinforcement at the junction of the lower supports and the carrier pipe (3).

Sixth step.
I tap all welded joints with a special hammer to remove slag. Next, with a brush on a grinder, I clean the places of welding (see video clip).

Seventh step.
Coloring. It may not be necessary, but it's still nicer to see a neat element than a rusty freak.

Eighth step.
I will fix the frame to the wall with the help of special dowels.

A hole is drilled in the wall (in my case 5 mm), a dowel is inserted, and the movable element of the dowel is driven in with a hammer. It turns out not a collapsible connection, quite reliable in its qualities. The drilling process is quite dusty. Not wanting to drag a vacuum cleaner for, I put on a respirator and drill a hole. First, I fasten the upper support to one dowel, then to one lower support. Further, already holding on to the structure itself, I quickly drill the remaining holes and drive in the dowels.

This completes the manufacture and mounting of the antenna bracket. I fasten the antenna itself with brackets to an aluminum pipe lying around in the household. Before installing the antenna in place, I seal the amplifier case with plasticine, and put on a piece of a plastic bottle. This is a well-established way to protect both the electronic part of the antenna and simple padlocks from atmospheric precipitation.

Installation of the antenna is not difficult: the aluminum tube is simply inserted into the carrier tube above the described bracket. And under its weight it holds securely in it, turning around its axis to adjust the best signal reception.

The transmission of information by means of electromagnetic waves in the radio frequency range has become commonplace in the life of modern man. Without this type of communication, it is impossible to imagine civilization in general: television, telephones, radios, means of navigation and control, as well as many other attributes of our everyday life, could not exist without radio waves.

Without going into the physics of propagation and transmission of radio signals, we note: in order to this species communication worked, requires a special kind of device that transmits and receives signals. Transmitters, as a rule, are rarely used by the layman, but receivers are ubiquitous.

A necessary element of the receiver is an antenna, and even if you do not see it, for example, cell phone, this does not mean that there is no antenna, it is simply hidden inside the case. Unfortunately, this is not always possible.

We will not tell you what the problem is here - this is a topic from the course of physics and radio electronics, and therefore it is of little interest to a person far from these issues.

However, we note: in some cases, for example, to receive a television or satellite signal, the antenna itself is quite large, while it must be installed at a certain height and oriented in space in a special way. In order for these conditions to be met, a special design is used - an antenna bracket.

You can look at specialized sites for photos of the antenna bracket - they will give the most general idea of ​​\u200b\u200bwhat it is. To fully understand this issue, you need to know more, and therefore we will dwell on this topic in more detail and reveal some, not entirely obvious, aspects: knowing them will save you from unpleasant and unnecessary “surprises”.

Necessary conditions for confident reception

One of the prerequisites for successful and reliable reception in the vast majority of cases, for example, for receiving satellite and television signals, is a direct line of sight between the transmitting and receiving antennas.

What does this mean? It's simple: the transmitting antenna, for example, a TV tower, is installed at the highest point of the landscape, this achieves the maximum coverage area, and you have the receiving one. The main thing is that there should be no obstacles between these two antennas: hills, buildings, poles, fences, etc. That is, the signal from the transmitting station reaches the receiver along the direct vector, without bumping into obstacles.

That is why antennas are located high above the ground: the higher, the less likely there is an obstacle between the transmitting and receiving antennas.

It is important to note here: if your house is located on a mountain, i.e., there are no obstacles between it and the transmitting station, then it makes no sense to “lift up” the antenna high, nor will a high location give any effect. It will be enough to use a simple bracket for the antenna on the wall, raising it by 2-3 meters.

Otherwise, when the antenna is installed in a lowland, a sufficiently high mast is required to obtain a direct line of sight, which will ensure reliable reception of a signal of sufficient strength.

The next point to be aware of is orientation. In this case, we are dealing with the need for precise orientation of the receiving antenna to the transmitting one. In other words: the receiving side of the antenna must be directed strictly in the direction of the transmitting station, this achieves the maximum level of the useful signal.

In some cases, in addition to positioning in the horizontal plane, a clear orientation is also required in the vertical, in particular: a bracket for satellite dish should provide for adjustment in both planes, and do it with high accuracy.

Another prerequisite is sufficient structural strength. Under the influence of external factors: wind, shocks, precipitation, etc., the antenna must maintain its position, and also not pose a danger to others.

For safety reasons, when installed outdoors, at a sufficiently high altitude, it is required to provide protection against lightning, which will avoid damage to equipment, the likelihood of fire and shock electric shock people during a thunderstorm.

Bracket designs

According to the scope, it is necessary to distinguish the following types of brackets for the antenna:

• street;
• Room;
• Automotive.

Car brackets are specialized designs, and therefore it makes no sense to dwell on them in detail in this article.

For indoor installation, special indoor antennas, with appropriate mounting brackets. Them main feature: small dimensions, the ability to install anywhere, except for some, special models, as well as aesthetic appearance.

There are no difficulties in using such antennas and, accordingly, their brackets, especially since they are made as a whole.

Street - the most common and most complex devices. This type of brackets allow you to mount the antenna on masts, walls and other building structures, orient it in space and ensure reliable installation.

There are a lot of options for such brackets. The complexity and cost depends on many factors: the mass of the antenna itself; the need for adjustment in space; installation method; possibility of remote positioning.

A lot of people make a bracket for the antenna with their own hands. In this case, it is important to take into account your capabilities and provide for sufficient strength and reliability of the structure.

Photo of antenna brackets

Equipment for digital television- this is what you can buy in our store. Our company operates on the market of essential and satellite equipment Since 2003, we already know most of our customers by sight.
For regular customers of our online store there is a system of discounts, which is calculated automatically according to the coupon number assigned to you personally.
All equipment undergoes pre-sale preparation, namely, it is installed latest version Software for satellite and terrestrial set-top boxes. All receivers are tested for performance.
Our company delivers equipment, both in Moscow and throughout Russia. Most courier companies have agreements for reduced shipping rates.
In our online store you can find almost any equipment that you may need to receive satellite and terrestrial television. We tried to make the ordering process convenient for anyone. If you plan to order more than one item, but several, then you can use the search in the store and pay attention to related equipment. If you want to pick up equipment for receiving satellite TV, then you should go to the tab menu " Satellite television", if for receiving terrestrial or cable TV, then "Terrestrial Television", etc. If you have questions during the ordering process, then you can use the online chat located on each page of the online store or order a call back.
We hope that in the digital TV online store you will be able to spend the minimum amount of time ordering the required equipment.

Equipment for digital television - this is what you can buy in our store. Our company has been operating in the market of terrestrial and satellite equipment since 2003 and we already know most of our customers by sight.
For regular customers of our online store there is a system of discounts, which is calculated automatically according to the coupon number assigned to you personally.
All equipment undergoes pre-sale preparation, namely, the latest software version is installed on satellite and terrestrial set-top boxes. All receivers are tested for performance.
Our company delivers equipment, both in Moscow and throughout Russia. Most courier companies have agreements for reduced shipping rates.
In our online store you can find almost any equipment that you may need to receive satellite and terrestrial television. We tried to make the ordering process convenient for anyone. If you plan to order more than one item, but several, then you can use the search in the store and pay attention to related equipment. If you want to pick up equipment for receiving satellite TV, then you should go to the tab menu "Satellite TV", if for receiving terrestrial or cable TV, then "Terrestrial TV", etc. If you have any questions during the ordering process, you can use the online chat, which is located on each page of the online store, or order a call back.
We hope that in the digital TV online store you will be able to spend the minimum amount of time ordering the required equipment.