Often there is a need to charge your gadget at a time when there is no power supply nearby. In such a situation, Power Bank will come to the rescue. Such a battery can be purchased at any electronics store. But there is an interesting point - you can build it yourself. Let's talk about how to make a Power Bank with your own hands.

First assembly method

Let us immediately note that for assembly you do not need any expensive parts; you need batteries, a USB connector and ordinary materials that can be found in any home.

Let's try to make a battery using the first method:

• Let's take two matchbox. We cut, bend one of the walls of each to the side, and then glue it together. When you get a single design, put two batteries in each box.

• Now we use the staples. They will be needed to create reliable contact between the boxes. They must be secured at the ends on both sides, and then connected with wire.

• The battery is almost ready. All that remains is to build the body. The ideal option would be a small box into which you can stick the resulting structure so that the gap is minimal.

• When the previous step is completed, take a plastic vitamin jar and make a small hole in it into which you insert the USB connector. Carefully secure it and solder the wire that connects to the battery. Now you should place this entire structure in a jar, which can be closed with a lid with a built-in USB connector.

Second way

An original method that allows you to construct a Power Bank from a regular flashlight. Here we will need a voltage converter that will help achieve the 5 volts required for charging.

To subsequently switch between the flashlight and the Power Bank, you need to disassemble it and remove the resistor attached to the LED; it activates the transition to a less bright light.

Where previously there was a plug required for recharging, a converter with a connector should be installed. The next step involves soldering the battery terminals to the charge controller. Then the converter should be soldered to its output contacts. Now we check the resulting design for functionality, if everything works out, you can fasten the components dangling in the body using epoxy glue.

Third method

You will need several old batteries from mobile devices and a charge controller. We wrap the batteries with tape and solder the side terminals in parallel. The central ones can be left alone, as they control the charge level indication. We solder the wires to the charge controller and place the entire structure in a suitable container, having previously made a hole in it for the USB connector.

We hope that now you will be able to make an external battery with your own hands.

Everyone brainiacs, Hello! I suppose you all belong to that part of the world's population that uses smartphones, and I think over the past couple of years you have replaced them several times with more advanced ones. All “outdated” smartphones have lithium-ion batteries, which are not possible to use in new models, and thus you are left with good, but useless batteries... Is this true?

Personally, I have accumulated three phone batteries (and I did not change the phones because the batteries were faulty), they did not heat up or swell, and they can be used to power some gadgets. The capacity of an average battery after 2 years of use is about 80% of the original, this is exactly the period during which I usually purchase a new one brainsmartphone. And if you think about the efforts to obtain raw materials, the production of the batteries themselves and the costs of transportation...

All things considered, it would be a real shame to let them slowly "die" or simply throw them away. In this brain article And video I'll tell you how with your own hands do homemade, which allows you to “give new life” to batteries from old phones, that is, make an external battery for gadgets, also known as POWERBANK.

Step 1: Materials

Well, let's start with what you need to create your own external battery. Materials needed:

• lithium-ion battery,
• charging and protection board for lithium-ion batteries, designed for 5V, maximum input current 1A (the less, the longer the “second life” of the battery will be),
• DC/DC boost converter with output values ​​of 5V and max. 600MA
  wires,
• several pin connectors,
• stationery clip,
  a piece of acrylic,
• screws,
• and a switch.

You will also need:

• a pair of pliers,
• stripper,
• soldering iron,
• and a glue gun,
• and also a drill and a drill.

Step 2: How do the boards work?

First, let's take a look at the charging and protection board for lithium-ion batteries. Its three important functions are charging, overcurrent protection and undervoltage protection.

Lithium-ion batteries charge according to a specific pattern - when they are almost fully charged, their current consumption decreases. Brainboard recognizes this and as soon as the battery voltage reaches 4.2V, it stops charging. At the output of the board there is a protection circuit that prevents overcurrent and excessive undervoltage. Modern telephone batteries already have such protection built in, but in this case homemade This board will allow you to use unprotected batteries that can be found in older laptops. The charging current of the board can be adjusted using a resistor, and it should be within 30-50% of the rated battery capacity.

The DC converter converts the battery's DC voltage into a square wave and passes it through a small coil. Due to induction processes, a higher voltage is generated, which is converted back to DC and can be used to power gadgets designed for 5V.

Now, more or less knowing what we are dealing with, we can begin the actual assembly brain games.

Step 3: Design

Before you start creating the housing for homemade products, measure the components and make a drawing. So in my brain structure the battery will be secured using a stationery clip, which is screwed to the case, the boards will be located on top of each other, the input/output contacts will be on top in the upper part of the case, and the contacts going to the batteries will be on the bottom.

Some batteries have a non-standard position of the polarity of the contacts, so this “non-standard” must be taken into account in our device, that is, we need to add pin connectors. To do this, take a connector with three pins and tear out the middle one, and bend the pins themselves on one side to make it easier to attach them to the battery contacts. Or take a connector with four pins, connect the outer ones to the positive terminal, and the middle ones to the negative, and thereby change the polarity of the contacts by simply connecting the battery to the left or right pair of pins.

Step 4: Making the Case

Now let's start assembling the body. To do this, take a ruler and use a sharp knife to mark the lines, scratching them about 10 times, so that you don’t have to put a lot of effort on the workpiece and don’t use the ruler anymore. Having scratched the lines to a sufficient depth, we apply pliers to them and bend the workpiece until it breaks along these lines. Having “broken” all the necessary parts in this way braincase, we clean them and adjust them to each other. Then we attach them to a stable surface and, using a drill, make holes and slots for screws, a switch, inputs, outputs and pin connectors.

Step 5: Circuit Assembly

Before you begin assembly brain devices First we assemble the electrical circuit, and focus on the presented diagram. A small switch here is used to turn the DC/DC converter on/off.

Step 6: Final Assembly

Using a glue gun, we glue the boards to each other, and then to one of the body parts. Next, we glue the entire body and screw a stationery clip to it.

We connect the battery through the pin connector and try homemade In action. If it does not work, then connect the charging cable.

Step 7: Use!

Well, now your old phone batteries are back in business!

The version of the case I proposed is of course not ideal, but it will do for demonstrating the whole concept. I can even bet that you will come up with a much better solution :)

That's all, everyone brain success!

Frequent trips on business trips and for household chores led to the idea of ​​​​buying a reliable type charger for a mobile phone on Android OS that is always in need of power. Since the delivery time from the sky-high leaves much to be desired, but it was necessary yesterday, the “made-it-yourself-made-from-ready” option was chosen yesterday. An article on the now ubiquitous LiPo/LiIon batteries turned up at the right time.

A trip to the store brought another joy, a ready-made 5-volt DC-DC converter charging module. They have already begun to be imported due to the demand of our radio amateur friend.

The diagram of this converter, as well as the description, can be freely found on the Internet.

• KEY FEATURES
• Conversion Type DC to DC
• Input Voltage 2.3 to 4.8 V
• Output Voltage 5 V
• Output Current 1 A
• Efficiency 87%
• Topology Boost

Well, everything has been purchased and checked, HURRAY! Works. LiIon picked from a dead laptop battery bought a few months ago on one of the sites where people sell all sorts of unnecessary things. Six batteries were connected in parallel, in the end, although not new batteries, but power Power bank I managed to lift it.

It's a small matter, unfortunately you can't pick up the case in our store, we'll cut plexiglass, we have dichloroethane in stock at home. I cut it and glued it together in half an hour so there won’t be any photos, but here’s the finished device please.

After sea trials, I came to the conclusion that without a battery controller, the banks can be killed. Here too ready-made solution, battery from a mobile phone, in my case Samsung. We disassemble and take out the controller, which for our purposes is just what the doctor ordered.

The controller was installed between the DC/DC converter and the battery, checking the Powerbank showed that this circuit works and a full charge of the power bank is enough to charge the power-hungry Android four times.

When the charge on the batteries drops to 3.2 volts, the controller turns off the converter, the controller does not take part in charging, but the board based on the microcircuit charges it TP4056 up to 4.2 volts. I added a capacitor to the stabilizer board for stable operation of the controller with the converter. Best regards, UR5RNP.

The process of manufacturing a high-capacity Power bank from Li-Ion batteries 18650 and multifunctional stabilizer.

Assembling your own Power Bank

Today, devices such as Power bank (autonomous Charger) have become firmly established in our daily lives. They greatly facilitate the use of all kinds of modern energy-intensive gadgets, such as tablets and smartphones, as they allow you to quickly recharge in almost any conditions when you are away from a power outlet.

The simplest Power banks have only one type of output - USB, which is the most popular. In more advanced chargersdevices you can find outputs with a voltage that has become the standard supply voltage for low-voltage devices - 12V. This is significantexpands the scope of application of such Power banks, since almost any automotive electronics and many others operate from 12Velectrical consumers. And when using an inverter, you can get 220V if desired.

The cornerstone in such Power banks is the issue of capacity. The use of modern high-capacity Li-ion batteries allowscreate in a compact size a power source of sufficient capacity to power any 12 volt device forseveral hours.

Unfortunately, manufacturers often skimp on the quality of built-in lithium batteries to reduce the overall costcharger, which negatively affects the operating time of the Power bank. Therefore, we want to tell you how to make Power yourselfBank using a kit consisting of a multifunctional DC-DC converter, a protection board and housing, and high-quality lithium batteries of a common standard size .

We will need:
Kit for assembling Power Bank model HCX-284 consisting of a multifunctional DC-DC converter and a protection board(PCM) for Li-ion batteries and metal case for 4 Li-Ion 18650 batteries.For lithium cells, we’ll take 4 Panasonic Li-ion batteries model NCR18650B 3.6V with a capacity of 3400mAh

The HCX-284 converter has a stabilized 12V output with a maximum load current of 4A and a 5-volt USB connector with a maximum current of 1A. To charge our Power Bank, you can use any 12V power supply with a 5.5 x 2.5 mm pin connector andmaximum current of at least 1.5A. You can, of course, use a less powerful power supply, but the charging process in this case may takefor quite a long time.

The operating principle of our Power Bank is as follows:
From a battery assembly of 4 series-connected (4S) Li-Ion batteries, we get a nominal voltage of 14.8V. More precisely, thisthe voltage, during operation, will change from 16.8V (fully charged battery) to 12V (fully discharged). Directly toThe batteries are connected to the PCM protection board. It will control these upper and lower voltages, preventing them from going beyondextreme values ​​and protecting lithium cells from overcharging and overdischarging.
From the protection board, the voltage is supplied to the input of the step-down DC-DC converter, which turns our 16.8 - 12V from batteries intostabilized 12V and 5V on the corresponding connectors.

When charging batteries, 12 volts from the “DC In” input of the stabilizer are converted into 16.8 V necessary to charge a 4S Li-Ion battery.The maximum current supplied to the batteries is 1A and does not depend on the power of your power supply. This allows you to useThe HCX-284 includes lithium batteries with a minimum capacity of about 2000mAh, the charge current of which should not exceed halfvalues ​​from capacity, i.e. approximately 1A.

Build process:

1. Using hot glue, glue together a battery of four Panasonic Li-Ion batteries model NCR18650B.

Hot melt adhesive is best used withlow melting point to prevent local overheating of batteries. We pay attention to the quality of the adhesive seams - they are notmust protrude beyond the dimensions of the battery, otherwise it simply will not fit into the case.

2. We use special electrical insulators to prevent contact between the nickel welding strip and the battery housing.

3. We weld Li-Ion cells into a 4S battery using 5x0.127mm nickel tape and a resistance welding machine. Solder Li-Ionbatteries are not recommended due to the fact that they are afraid of overheating, which can greatly reduce their service life. Since the currents in our battery will be inwithin 3-4 amperes, this tape thickness will be more than enough.

We immediately form the terminals of all voltages for subsequent solderingwires to the test pins on the PCM board.

4. Install the PCM on the battery. We form power contacts using only tape. It is more reliable and more compact. Test voltagesWe connect to the board with wires of the smallest cross-section. We used MGSHV 0.2mm, but you can use wire and, for example, MGTF0.14mm.

The controller contacts must be connected in sequence from “minimum” to “maximum”, i.e. first “B-”, then +3.7V, 7.4V,11.1V and the last "B+"

5. We make conclusions from the PCM using a 0.5mm PUGV wire. The length of the leads should be no more than 2 cm. Cover the ends of the battery with insulating tape.arton and pack the batteries in thin shrink film.

At this stage, we have a protected battery that can be used without fear of overcharging or overdischarging. But on the way out,for now, we have an unstabilized voltage, which will change during the discharge process from 16.8V to 12V.

6. Connect the battery to the stabilizer board. To do this, connect the black “negative” wire to the “P-” contact, and the red “positive” wire tocontact “P+” In this case, the stabilizer will blink once with all three LEDs.

7. Install the battery with a soldered stabilizer into the case. We start the installation with the battery, then the stabilizer. Stabilizer boardinstalled in special grooves in the housing.
8. We close the ends of the case with special plugs included in the kit and paste decorative stickers.

All. Our handmade PowerBank is ready. We check the work by pressing the only button, which, if not connectedconnectors, includes a charge level indication, which shows that our batteries are now fully charged.
When using the Power Bank HCX-284, one nuance must be taken into account: the 12V output is provided using a socket for the power pin connectorsize 4x1.7mm. It should be noted that this standard size is rare and it is difficult to find it on the open market.That's why we include a wire with a soldered male connector included with the HCX-284 kit.

Let's calculate the total capacity of our Power Bank:
We used 4 Panasonic batteries model NCR18650B 3.6V with a capacity of 3400mAh. In total, we get 3.4A/h at a voltage of 14.8V.
But we haveThere are 2 voltages at the output: 5V and 12V. It should also be taken into account that the efficiency of the converter is about 90%.

Accordingly, at 5V the capacity of our battery will be ((14.8*3.4)*0.9)/5 = 9.05Ah This means that with a five-volt load of 1A current, our Power Bank will work for about 9 hours!
At 12V the capacity will be: ((14.8*3.4)*0.9)/12 = 3.77Ah

That's basically the whole process. In terms of time, if you have experience and tools, it takes about 1 hour.
If you are not confident in your abilities, we can Power Bank using any Li-Ion batteries present inour catalogue.

In our store there are already assembled, ready-to-use Power Banks based on the H284 kit.

Once again the topic of the article is devoted to PowerBanks. Today you can see a simple good circuit without any microcircuits, just transistors.

The circuit is a simple stabilized step-up that is capable of increasing the voltage from a power source, for example, from a lithium battery, to a level of 5 V. This voltage will already allow you to charge tablets and smartphones.

Of course, such a boost converter module can be purchased in China for about $1, but the operation of a device assembled by yourself is much more enjoyable. In addition, this scheme requires practically no financial costs, and you do not have to wait a month, as in the case of ordering goods from China.

A few words about the circuit and the principle of its operation.

There is a multivibrator as a pulse generator. In the presented version, it is tuned to a frequency of about 30 kHz.

The principle of operation of the circuit is no different from its relatives. The initial pulse from the multivibrator, arriving at the base of the composite transistor, opens it. At the moment the transistor closes, self-induction EMF pulses arise from the inductor, which are rectified by the fast diode D1 and smoothed out by the capacitor C1. The output voltage is stabilized, and it is set by selecting the zener diode VD1.

Transistor VT2 opens when the output voltage from the converter exceeds the specified stabilization voltage. The base of transistor VT1 is short-circuited to ground through its open junction. As a result, the latter closes.

The efficiency of this converter can reach 70-75%. And that's very good. But to achieve such efficiency, you will have to spend more than one hour rewinding the throttle, because a lot depends on it.

The maximum current value that was obtained at the output was about 1 A. Stabilization works as expected. The device is suitable for real use.

A lot of time was also spent on creating the board. It is compact and looks very nice.

You can download the board at the end of the article.

It's time to talk about the element base and circuit setup. It is recommended to take a composite transistor VT1. Experiments were carried out with different transistors, but in the end the most suitable were KT829, KT972 or something imported, for example, BD677, etc.

The inductor is wound on a dumbbell-type ferrite core. It was removed from the computer's power supply board. You can also use powdered iron rings or a rod core. The number of turns and diameter of the wire were selected through experiments. Ultimately, the inductor was wound with a wire with a diameter of 8 mm (deviation up to 20% is possible). The number of turns was 25.

Setting up the converter comes down to obtaining the required output voltage and minimum current consumption at idle. In the described example, the minimum current idle move is 40 mA and depends on the inductor. This is a lot when compared with ready-made Chinese modules. But nothing can be done - you shouldn’t expect more from a banal multivibrator.

The zener diode is also subject to selection. The stabilization voltage is selected in the range of 4.7-6.2 V. In the example, a zener diode of 5.1 V is used.

The composite transistor is still bipolar, and it can heat up during operation, so a small heat sink in the form of an aluminum sheet will be very useful.

Don't forget to check the device's functionality. The wattmeter on the Chinese USB tester is a little “buggy” - the actual voltage is approximately 5 V and can “walk” within a small limit, which is completely normal. The charging current will also change.

Now take a look at the PowerBank design as a whole. The converter is powered by two 18650 (Li-ion) batteries connected in parallel. They were taken from a laptop battery. The working capacities of both should be as close as possible to each other.

The batteries were also supplemented with a protection board that turns them off when the voltage drops below 3.2 V.

To do this, the device uses the following charge board:

Such boards come already with a battery protection circuit. Such boards are easier to buy than to make, because their price is only 30-50 cents.

Now assembly. The first step is to prepare the batteries. It is not advisable to solder them, but it is possible. The main thing is not to overheat.

The number of batteries can be any. In the example there are 2 of them. The larger their capacity, the more time PowerBank operation. All batteries are connected in parallel.

The housing for the PowerBank came from an old laptop power adapter.

All that remains is to place all the parts in the case, add a power switch, bring out a USB connector for charging phones, miniUSB for charging the PowerBank itself, and also bring out a couple of LEDs that are on the controller board. One of them lights up when charging in progress, and the second lights up upon completion.

Attached files: .

DIY charger for lithium batteries